Monday, November 16, 2009

My Pied a Terre in Paris

I've always dreamed of having a pied a terre in Paris, and this Christmas I'll have this one. Isn't it adorable?

The thought of staying in a hotel during the holidays seemed kind of sad, but an apartment that I could decorate with seasonal greenery and where I could cook Christmas dinner sounded appealing. Friends in the know have long touted the pleasures of vacation apartment rental . More roomy than a hotel (although this is a relative term in Paris), apartments usually boast better bathrooms plus cooking facilities --- all for about the same price, or less than a hotel for 10 days. A reason to shop Paris' fabulous open air markets and actually be able to buy something! Twist my arm.

I went back and forth over whether to stay on the Left or Right Bank (love them both) and finally compromised by going with a place in the middle of the Seine on Ile Saint Louis. This little island is actually one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris: great architecture, shopping food and a real village feel. My neighbors on the island will include the Baron de Rothschild and the pretender to the throne of France. Maybe I should host a pot-luck so we can all get acquainted!

Apartment rental is more of a hassle than booking a hotel room online -- at least on the front end. So far there's been a lot of paperwork and deposits flying back and forth. I would advise potential renters to check out various agencies online before signing with one. Trip Advisor is a good place to do this. From what I've read online if you have a good owner, you'll have a good experience. If the owner turns out to be a nightmare, the agency won't be much help. I'll let you know how my experience works out. I've heard good things about my little place.

If you're not up for the hassle or just want the amenities of a hotel, I recommend the charming Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais in La Marais district on the Right Bank. This boutique hotel is as enchanting as the web site promises, although like everything in Paris, very, very tiny. Long windows in the streetside rooms let in lots of light and will help make the place seem spacious and some have balconies; I've heard the "courtyard" rooms are a little claustrophobic. If you book early enough you can request a streetside balcony. I would forgo the breakfast at any hotel. There are bakeries and patisseries on every street in Paris where you can find the same fare for much less.


  1. Hey Cathy, I am so excited about "our trip" nice of you to invite me along. When are you leaving? Please post lots of pictures and have a marvelous time!
    Cathy B

  2. I'm so envious...what a wonderful time for you! The pied a terre looks superb, lovely finishes and furnishings, all the gold trim in the bedroom and the stone wall, oh my. I spent a few weeks in Paris with my sister many years ago, and look forward to reading all about your trip -- and reviving some of my fond memories of the city and my Parisian friend who took me to Monmartres and Versailles and the cafes...Write plenty, and enjoy.