Shopping in Paris: Les Marches aux Puces at Cligancourt

I have always loved flea market chic. While I have been told on good authority that the giant flea markets at Cligancourt aren't really flea markets so much as a series of small pricey antique shops, I still had to go. It was still snowing (and sleeting) which added to the slightly louche atmosphere. The only thing I bought were some old keys to hang on a chain a la Tiffanys'. Still it was fun to wander through the stalls while munching on roasted chestnuts and dream of lugging home a huge crystal chandelier.

Eating in Paris: Sorza

The landlady, Emmanuelle, recommended this little Italian bistro down the street for dinner on the first night. Really, I cannot stress how convenient everything is here on the island. I don't see why people would ever need to leave.

Sorza is one of those tiny (fewer than 25 seats) restaurants so popular here. It's very chic and attracts a young, hip crowd late at night. The staff is very friendly. All seem to speak English, but indulge my bad French.

I order the penne carbonara with panna cotta with two-fruit coulis for dessert. It's good, but not great. I've had better Italian food. The fixed price menu is not a bad deal, however.

Verdict: It's one of those places that looks like a picture in a chic travel magazine. It gets a high grade on style and service. The food isn't bad, but I don't plan to eat here again on this trip.

Il Neige! (It's Snowing)

I arrive in Paris to a winter wonderland. The white hills I spotted flying in over England this morning tipped me off. Big white flakes still swirled as we landed.

Paris this time of year smells like roasting chestnuts -- vendors are on just about every corner. It sounds like church bells and accordion music. Even in the sub-freezing temperatures, the musicians are taking advantage of the weekend crowds. "Jingle Bells" seems to be a favorite.

The neighborhood cafes have set up stands on the sidewalks to sell takeaway cups of chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) and vin chaud (hot spiced red wine) to keep passers-by warm in the sub-freezing temps. It's all just very festive, and you get a real sense of the holidays (or fetes as they call them here) without feeling overwhelmed by all the commercialism in the states.

The city is draped in lights, and shopkeepers festoon their windows with garlands. There are evergreens draped in red and gold (typical Parisian Christmas colors) and some flocked bright red, orange and even hot pink. I pass a huge decorated tree in the square in front of Notre Dame.

The apartment is even lovelier -- and larger-- than the web photos promised. No elevator though. And a third floor walk-up here is really on the fourth floor. Oh well, an excuse to eat an extra croissant tomorrow morning.

I won't have to go far. Everything I need -- patisseries, fromageries, charcouteries, boutiques, restaurants, librairies are right here on the island. I feel so lucky to be staying here.

Dinner tonight at the little Italian restaurant Emmanuelle, the landlady, recommended and early to bed.

Lesson Learned: Bring Some Euros (the coin variety ) with you

The best way to get euros for your trip to Paris is just to use an ATM when you get there. They're everywhere. I've never had any problems, but check with your bank before you go to ensure your card will work in an overseas ATM. Your withdrawals may take a while to show up on your statement, and there are handling fees, but I far prefer doing this than using my credit card or travelers' checks or standing in line at the bank or a currency exchange place.

That said, if possible, bring along about 10 euros -- in coins (this is important) with you on your trip.

Here's my lesson learned.

If you're coming in on an international flight, you are going to fly into Charles de Gaulle.

The airport is located on the outer fringes of town . The good news is there are kiosks all over the airport where you can buy an RER ticket into the city. The bad news for you, my fellow Americans, is that you will have a hell of a time buying one.

The kiosks take European -- but not American -- credit cards. Something about a microchip vice a mangetic strip. Why this is in the days of a global marketplace eludes me.

Now, if you've followed my advice above, you now have a handful of crisp euros fresh from airport's ATM. These are useless at present because THE TICKET KIOSKS DON'T ACCEPT BILLS, JUST COINS. The ticket kiosks at Paris' other airport, Orly, accept bills as well as coins. I don't quite understand this discrepancy. It's a French thing.

There aren't any change machines at de Gaulle either.

Your only recourses at this point are to stand in the loooooonnnngggg line with all the other confused American tourists to buy one at the understaffed RER ticket counter or buy all kinds of stuff you don't want or need at the aiport sundries store until you have enough change to buy a ticket from the machine.

This will put you in a very bad mood and start your Paris vacation off on the wrong foot.

Far better to just walk up to the RER ticket kiosk, drop in the coins you have brought with you for this purpose and be on your merry way. That's what I did this time and got out of the airport in record time.

What to Wear in the Land of the Perpetually Chic

One of the most stressful aspects of visiting Paris is packing -- especially this time of year when the weather can be nasty. The Deep South it ain't.

To add to my dilemma, Paris is a style-conscious city. Even when the weather is frightful, Parisians, male and female, have that intimidating ability to appear perfectly pulled together without a hint of any particular effort on their part. I want to do that, too.

Not to pat myself on the back, but on my last trip several natives, including the snooty Air France flight attendant, mistook me for French. Considering these folks can spot an American from a mile away, I consider this my greatest fashion achievement ever -- as well as a huge compliment.

Here's how I pulled it off.

Parisiennes base their wardrobes around neutrals, especially black. I follow their lead and pack a core wardrobe of black essentials -- coat or jacket, slacks, skirt, sweaters -- and throw in a pair of dark wash jeans, a white T or classic white shirt, and a twinset and a couple of tops in jewel tones.

To fake an air of French chic, and to personalize my look, I pack a few pieces of "statement" costume jewelry and some scarves. It's no cliche -- Parisiennes love their scarves and perform fabulous feats with them. I always pick up a few new scarf tricks (and new scarves) when I'm there.

As for footwear, you really only need two sets: a pair of black low-heeled boots and some ballet flats with thick, flexible, cushioned soles for walking on all those cobblestones. My big slouchy black purse is all the rage in Paris and can double as a carry-on. Belted sweaters are popular right now so I'll add a wide black leather belt.

Since it's winter, I'll throw in a crushable hat, some warm socks, black tights, light-weight silk thermal undergarments, my cashmere-lined leather gloves, and an umbrella.

There you have it. All packed and ready to go. A week's worth of go anywhere clothes that won't show dirt or wrinkles and that will still leave room in my suitcase for lots of new purchases.

For more information about what to wear, Paris Escapes provides a reliable seasonal barometer of current fashion as well as age- and gender-specific fashion and grooming tips.

Flying High with L'Otite (Ear Inflammation)

Two weeks until P-day, and I have the rotten luck to come down with a full-on upper-respiratory infection. Sinuses, ear, the whole nine yards. Merde.

Frequent traveler that I am, I know that there is nothing that can make air travel more unpleasant than an ear inflammation (une otite) in French (and that's saying something these days). I wouldn't fly from here to Jackson with a sinus/ ear infection, let alone brave a transatlantic flight. One of the banes of traveling this time of year.

I also know that when I get one of these things, they tend to linger for weeks, if not months, turning me into one of the Phlegm Sisters. Nuh, uh. So not happening this Christmas. So today, I hightailed it to my doctor, explained my dilemma and got the goods --a shot and some antibiotics plus a load of good advice. Believe it or not, I am already feeling much better. That stuff is good!

So if you're planning on flying anywhere (Paris or otherwise) and you feel a sinus infection or pressure in your middle ear, get you to a doctor fast. That is, unless a ruptured eardrum actually is on your Christmas list.

Also (and I am passing on my doctor's medical advice not making this up) plan on chewing a lot of gum, sucking on hard candy or drinking a lot of fluids during your entire flight not just takeoff and landing, to keep your ears clear. Now how I am going to pull this off during a 10-hour flight when I'm supposed to be sleeping is a whole 'nother issue. Hopefully the selection of in-flight movies is good.

One "doctoring" issue down.Now if we could just find someone to doctor up those in-flight meals.

My Pied a Terre in Paris

I've always dreamed of having a pied a terre in Paris, and this Christmas I'll have this one. Isn't it adorable?

The thought of staying in a hotel during the holidays seemed kind of sad, but an apartment that I could decorate with seasonal greenery and where I could cook Christmas dinner sounded appealing. Friends in the know have long touted the pleasures of vacation apartment rental . More roomy than a hotel (although this is a relative term in Paris), apartments usually boast better bathrooms plus cooking facilities --- all for about the same price, or less than a hotel for 10 days. A reason to shop Paris' fabulous open air markets and actually be able to buy something! Twist my arm.

I went back and forth over whether to stay on the Left or Right Bank (love them both) and finally compromised by going with a place in the middle of the Seine on Ile Saint Louis. This little island is actually one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris: great architecture, shopping food and a real village feel. My neighbors on the island will include the Baron de Rothschild and the pretender to the throne of France. Maybe I should host a pot-luck so we can all get acquainted!

Apartment rental is more of a hassle than booking a hotel room online -- at least on the front end. So far there's been a lot of paperwork and deposits flying back and forth. I would advise potential renters to check out various agencies online before signing with one. Trip Advisor is a good place to do this. From what I've read online if you have a good owner, you'll have a good experience. If the owner turns out to be a nightmare, the agency won't be much help. I'll let you know how my experience works out. I've heard good things about my little place.

If you're not up for the hassle or just want the amenities of a hotel, I recommend the charming Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais in La Marais district on the Right Bank. This boutique hotel is as enchanting as the web site promises, although like everything in Paris, very, very tiny. Long windows in the streetside rooms let in lots of light and will help make the place seem spacious and some have balconies; I've heard the "courtyard" rooms are a little claustrophobic. If you book early enough you can request a streetside balcony. I would forgo the breakfast at any hotel. There are bakeries and patisseries on every street in Paris where you can find the same fare for much less.